Rick Ferguson "DaGoose"
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trip report with bounceball basics
Jul. 2 2009, 5:24 PM
Jul. 2 2009, 5:24 PM
Halibut fishing really turned back on early last week off Carlsbad and Dana Point with the fish going on the chew. It ended just a fast and has remained slow since Friday, at least for us and others I have spoken with. That's halibut fishing though. It will turn back on again. There's only one wait to find out; get out there and enjoy a summer day on the water. Sometimes you pay your dues pounding heaps of sand bounce-balling with little success. Every now and then the rewards are memorable filling the day with big grins, grown man giggles, maybe even a spontaneous celebratory dance or two. It just doesn’t get much better!
I was fortunate to enjoy one of these days Tuesday with my friend Herbert, who turned around and did it again on Wednesday. Here’s some pictures.
Bounceballing rigging was in my last blog so let’s get into the basics of slow trolling the bottom.
Boat speed is extremely critical when using a dodger. 1.6 - 2.4 mph is optimal to get the proper back and forth waggle action on the dodger. Simply lower the rig in the water and observe the action. Too fast and it will spin. Too slow the waggle is lazy. Use a drogue to moderate speed when needed. It looks like a windsock with an elongated funnel shape. They make them in different sizes. Bigger boats typically need bigger drogues. The trailing edge should be approximately 1/3 of the hull length forward of the transom. Tie it off fairly tight to prevent it from swinging out affecting steering.
Tangles are a common problem when first learning to bounce-ball and can be easily prevented. Always keep the rig under a load when deployed so it’s stretched out.
Think of it as a low flying kite that will crash if it falls in a heap on the bottom. Drop it with the boat in gear using the drag (not free spool) to moderate speed. Speed up when making sharp turns.
When dropping the gear, scope back until the ball maintains bottom contact. You’ll see the slight action from contact in the rod tip. If in doubt, raise and lower the rod tip. It should hit bottom near the bottom of the drop. I like 8lbs or so of drag pressure; enough for a good hook set but light enough to peel drag on the bigger fish.
Watch the rod tips closely. The bite of the smallest fish can be detected but if you miss it, they will be dragged along for the ride. The ball leader will collect kelp at times and load up. Grab the rod, thumb the spool, and give it a few good quick drop and lifts to clear it. You’ll feel it lighten up. Matched rods are optimal given each should mirror one another in behavior. Be cognizant of the “Fast” and “Slow” side of the boat when turning as it will affect rod tip action. The rod on the side to which you are turning is the slow side. It will drag more until running straight again. The converse is true for the fast side.
At times you’ll get snags that peel drag. Immediately thumb the spool firmly. Don’t be timid. Use both thumbs if necessary. Most often this will free it. If not, grab the rod, thumb the spool, and quickly lower and raise the rod several times. For nasty snags, back off the drag, clear the other lines, then get directly over it or slightly past it in the direction you came from. Reel the line tight and drop the rod, thumb the spool, then pop it out by quickly raising and dropping the rod. If this doesn’t work, tie off the spectra to a cleat with several good wraps, back off the drag, and put the boat in gear until something gives.
Use your GPS and sounder to navigate the rigs next to structure and monitor your trolling paths. Mark structure spots on the GPS to identify trolling lanes (Hint: Lobster season is a great time to find and mark rocks under buoys). The line scope provides a cushion of space to make evasive measures. For nasty situations without escape, either stop the boat and quickly bring the gear in, or greatly speed up the boat to raise the rigs off the bottom. Whatever you do, do not stop or make sharp turns without adding speed, then try to continue trolling. It will drop the rigs in the rocks.
Control the cannonball when on the deck. Grab it immediately after pulling the gear up. Don’t let it swing. I put mine on the rail in a scupper hole so it won’t roll around. Flush mounted rod holders work too. Otherwise, lay it on deck.
This is just what I have learned over the years through trial and error. I hope it is helpful. Like anything else, just get out there and do it. You can’t catch them from the couch.
Tight Lines,
Rick
Best of Big Game
www.bestofbiggame.com
Bounceballing rigging was in my last blog so let’s get into the basics of slow trolling the bottom.
Boat speed is extremely critical when using a dodger. 1.6 - 2.4 mph is optimal to get the proper back and forth waggle action on the dodger. Simply lower the rig in the water and observe the action. Too fast and it will spin. Too slow the waggle is lazy. Use a drogue to moderate speed when needed. It looks like a windsock with an elongated funnel shape. They make them in different sizes. Bigger boats typically need bigger drogues. The trailing edge should be approximately 1/3 of the hull length forward of the transom. Tie it off fairly tight to prevent it from swinging out affecting steering.
Tangles are a common problem when first learning to bounce-ball and can be easily prevented. Always keep the rig under a load when deployed so it’s stretched out.
Think of it as a low flying kite that will crash if it falls in a heap on the bottom. Drop it with the boat in gear using the drag (not free spool) to moderate speed. Speed up when making sharp turns.
When dropping the gear, scope back until the ball maintains bottom contact. You’ll see the slight action from contact in the rod tip. If in doubt, raise and lower the rod tip. It should hit bottom near the bottom of the drop. I like 8lbs or so of drag pressure; enough for a good hook set but light enough to peel drag on the bigger fish.
Watch the rod tips closely. The bite of the smallest fish can be detected but if you miss it, they will be dragged along for the ride. The ball leader will collect kelp at times and load up. Grab the rod, thumb the spool, and give it a few good quick drop and lifts to clear it. You’ll feel it lighten up. Matched rods are optimal given each should mirror one another in behavior. Be cognizant of the “Fast” and “Slow” side of the boat when turning as it will affect rod tip action. The rod on the side to which you are turning is the slow side. It will drag more until running straight again. The converse is true for the fast side.
At times you’ll get snags that peel drag. Immediately thumb the spool firmly. Don’t be timid. Use both thumbs if necessary. Most often this will free it. If not, grab the rod, thumb the spool, and quickly lower and raise the rod several times. For nasty snags, back off the drag, clear the other lines, then get directly over it or slightly past it in the direction you came from. Reel the line tight and drop the rod, thumb the spool, then pop it out by quickly raising and dropping the rod. If this doesn’t work, tie off the spectra to a cleat with several good wraps, back off the drag, and put the boat in gear until something gives.
Use your GPS and sounder to navigate the rigs next to structure and monitor your trolling paths. Mark structure spots on the GPS to identify trolling lanes (Hint: Lobster season is a great time to find and mark rocks under buoys). The line scope provides a cushion of space to make evasive measures. For nasty situations without escape, either stop the boat and quickly bring the gear in, or greatly speed up the boat to raise the rigs off the bottom. Whatever you do, do not stop or make sharp turns without adding speed, then try to continue trolling. It will drop the rigs in the rocks.
Control the cannonball when on the deck. Grab it immediately after pulling the gear up. Don’t let it swing. I put mine on the rail in a scupper hole so it won’t roll around. Flush mounted rod holders work too. Otherwise, lay it on deck.
This is just what I have learned over the years through trial and error. I hope it is helpful. Like anything else, just get out there and do it. You can’t catch them from the couch.
Tight Lines,
Rick
Best of Big Game
www.bestofbiggame.com
Capt. G
July 6, 2009, 6:56 am
Hi Rick,
In the past, I have done bounce-balling with a rig similar to the ones you post, and have caught a few legal (and tons of short)halibut.
Your picture above with the ball wrapped in kelp/grass is a common occurrence for me. I use a round cannon ball type weight--is there another shape that will reduce picking up all the weeds?
July 6, 2009, 6:56 am
Hi Rick,
In the past, I have done bounce-balling with a rig similar to the ones you post, and have caught a few legal (and tons of short)halibut.
Your picture above with the ball wrapped in kelp/grass is a common occurrence for me. I use a round cannon ball type weight--is there another shape that will reduce picking up all the weeds?
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July 15, 2009, 11:33 am
Hi G! That's a good question. Torpedo sinkers won't gather as much kelp and other fun stuff compared to a round cannonball. They also don't get snagged in the rocks as often. It's a trade off though. Torpedo's don't have the same bite when contacting the bottom compared to the cannonball. So they don't create the same commotion, plus it's more difficult to get a good feel that the rig is scoped back properly. Both work. I've found that simply thumbing the spool, then quickly raising and lowering the rod almost always clears it while you continue to troll. Otherwise it's time to bring it in and remove the debris, wasting fishing time and energy. Sorry for the late response. I was lagging!
Rick