Alan's Workbench
What mods and upgrades do I need to make?
Nov. 4 2009, 1:52 PM
Nov. 4 2009, 1:52 PM
What mods and upgrades do I need to make?
Question: Alan, I just bought a Progear CS 625 to pair up with an OTI 7'6" 60-80# Class rod. I want to be able to cast lures and baits to tuna and have the drag to really put the screws to them. I'll be using 80# spectra. The fishing I'm looking to do here in the Gulf of Mexico is throwing topwater lures and free lining live baits to YFT. Probably a very similar style to how you west coast guys set-up your wahoo bombs. Anyway, my question is what mods and upgrades do I need to make to get this reel to cast well without backlashing all the time and get the drag system up to par for 60-100# YFT? Thanks in advance. BTW - I based alot of my decision on your write up on the Albacore Special on your website.
Question: Alan, I just bought a Progear CS 625 to pair up with an OTI 7'6" 60-80# Class rod. I want to be able to cast lures and baits to tuna and have the drag to really put the screws to them. I'll be using 80# spectra. The fishing I'm looking to do here in the Gulf of Mexico is throwing topwater lures and free lining live baits to YFT. Probably a very similar style to how you west coast guys set-up your wahoo bombs. Anyway, my question is what mods and upgrades do I need to make to get this reel to cast well without backlashing all the time and get the drag system up to par for 60-100# YFT? Thanks in advance. BTW - I based alot of my decision on your write up on the Albacore Special on your website.
Answer: The drag washers should already be greased carbon fiber. Check them anyway. The screw holes and all the internal metal surfaces should already have a light coat of grease. Check this as well. The bearings are shielded and lubed with corrosion x from the factory. Here's where you have a decision to make. If you want the longest casting distance, then remove the shields, clean out any grease or oil, lube the bearings with xtreme reel + and reinstall the bearings open. You'll get the best distance this way. It will also backlash like crazy if you flub up your cast. You can slow down the spool using the end cap screw. That's not a good thing to do for the long run because you are rubbing metal against metal. An alternative would be to pack the bearings with grease and reinstall the bearing shields. Your bearings will last forever, but this will dramatically slow down the spool . Bearings packed with grease will be fine for casting only the heaviest irons or bombs where distance is not as much a factor.
Personally, I think your best bet would be to go for the open bearings with a light lube. Don't apply too much pressure when you chuck that bait out and let you thumb be the brake. It will take a bit of practice, and you will definitely have to pick out a backlash or two, but I believe that this will give you the best results. Want to see how it's really done? Get on any San Diego 5 to 10 day boat and watch the deckhands! Good luck! Alan
Personally, I think your best bet would be to go for the open bearings with a light lube. Don't apply too much pressure when you chuck that bait out and let you thumb be the brake. It will take a bit of practice, and you will definitely have to pick out a backlash or two, but I believe that this will give you the best results. Want to see how it's really done? Get on any San Diego 5 to 10 day boat and watch the deckhands! Good luck! Alan
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